WALLPAPERING MADE EASY

WHAT DO THESE SYMBOLS MEAN?

GETTING READY

PREPARATION

HOW MANY ROLLS?

FINAL CHECK

CUTTING THE PAPER

LOOK FOR PATTERN REPEATS

MAKE A PLUMB LINE

WALLPAPER SOAKING

HANGING THE FIRST STRIP

SWITCHES AND POWER POINTS

AROUND DOORS AND WINDOWS

BORDERS

IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS AT ALL ON DIY PLEASE DO NOT HESITATE TO CONTACT YOUR SUPPLIER

OR CONTACT VISION DIRECT BY PHONE OR EMAIL

WHAT DO THESE SYMBOLS MEAN?

"Easy Peel" You can change your wallpaper as often as you like now that there are dry-peelable wallpapers. There is no hard work removing these wallpapers, simply peel off the top vinyl surface, leaving the backing paper on the wall to hang your new wallpaper.

"Scrubbable" Scrubbable means just that. The super durable surface shrugs off dampness, steam and grime. Which means they work equally well in the bathroom or bedroom, kitchen or kids room. When Scrubbable wallpaper gets grubby just wash it or scrub lightly and it will look like new again.

"Pre-Pasted" Pre-pasted paper means no mess. No need for paste or paste brush. Just follow the soak and hang instructions.

"Easy Paper" This symbol means paper is Pre-Pasted, Scrubbable and Easy Peel. And it's for these reasons you will find it on just about all Vision Products.

The tools: To do the best job you'll need;

Water trough, trimming knife, ruler, table or bench, roller or brush, straight edge, scissors, plumb line, sponge, sandpaper (80 Grit), pencil, step ladder, smoother, wall size.

PREPARATION

Preparation is the most important part of wallpapering. Correct preparation will ensure a great result. For best results all old wallpaper should be removed. The walls must be clean and dry, grease free and structurally sound. Where there is evidence of dampness, find the cause and fix before continuing. Sand, dust and size wall  before hanging paper. For old yellowed or sunburnt Gyprock, or surfaces bearing water soluble stains, an oil based pigmented sealer should be used. When dry, sand with 80 grit sandpaper, dust and size before hanging paper. Surfaces painted with full gloss enamel need washing down with sugar soap. Rinse with clean water, allow to dry, then sand with 80 grit sandpaper (to provide a good key surface for size and paste to grip to). Dust, then size and hang the paper.

HOW MANY ROLLS? 

To calculate how may rolls of wallpaper you need, measure the height of the walls and the distance around the room , including doors and windows.

Then refer to the chart.

Work away from the main 

source of natural light.

FINAL CHECK

Before you begin, check the wallpaper you have purchased roll by roll to ensure you have the correct pattern, colour and sufficient quantity of the same Lot Number.  Examine the rolls for any visual difference in shading before beginning.  If after hanging three drops, defective material is discovered, stop and notify your retailer.

Remember this excellent advice:  DON'T PANIC! 

Always start in a corner and work away from the main source of natural light. Then finish in the most inconspicuous corner. Don't rush and don't panic if things aren't going as expected. 

Remember, even professionals make mistakes first time. Try to think of all moves through ahead.

CUTTING THE PAPER

Measure one wall from skirting to ceiling and add at least 5cm to the top and bottom to allow for trimming. Use this length as a template for cutting the rest of your paper.

LOOK FOR PATTERN REPEATS

There are two types of patterns, Straight Match and Half Drop. With Straight Match, every piece is the same and will match one another side by side. With Half Drop, every second piece is the same side by side.

MAKE A PLUMB LINE

Never assume every window or door architrave (surround)  is straight and true. Measure the width of your paper. Then measure the same distance out from the corner in the direction you intend working. Come back 15mm towards the corner and make a mark on the wall close to the ceiling. Drive a small nail here on which to hang a plumb line, then draw a line on the wall (just heavy enough to be seen) down the plumb line to the floor.

            Correct                            Incorrect

Please note we do not recommend taking pre-pasted wallpaper direct from the trough to the wall as the paper is often not wet enough by this process to adhere correctly.  We believe this is now an outdated method.

See notes for correct soaking techniques adjoining here.

Some special wallpapers such as grassweave and murals require different techniques for hanging.   Please do not hang any paper unless you are sure of the correct method. Contact us.

All products sold by Vision are sold on the understanding that faulty products will be replaced, but no labour claims will be accepted.

For assistance and advice with any facet of wallcoverings call your local Vision state sales contact listed under our contacts page.  We are here to help you achieve your special decorating project.

PRE-PASTED WALLPAPER SOAKING

Immerse the pre-cut length of pre-pasted wallpaper in a water trough for approx. 15 seconds, ensuring that the paste on the back is fully wetted.  Slowly draw the paper out of the water trough. Lay the wetted paper on a plastic sheet paste side up and fold each end to the centre. Drain, and allow the sheets a further 3 minutes to relax before opening and hanging as manufacturers instructions.  Rolling in from both extremities to the centre will spread the paste evenly and slow down drying, allowing the paper to relax and expand, prior to hanging. 

TIP -  It's also less messy.

UNPASTED WALLPAPER SOAKING

As per instructions for mix on packet, apply paste to roll with paste brush or roller, fold in the same way as pre-pasted to allow expansion & soaking time.   Apply as with pre-pasted instructions above. TIP - Mix up the  paste the night before.

PASTE THE WALL HANGING

Apply paste to the wall by roller or brush slightly wider than the width of the paper.  Apply the cut length of paper over the pasted wall and smooth on with a lay brush or soft applicator.   Trim then repeat process.

HANGING THE FIRST STRIP 

Position your first strip hard against the plumb line with the opposite edge going in the corner and wrapping a further 15mm around onto the adjoining wall. Once positioned correctly, smooth out from the centre to the edges using a smoother. Remove all bubbles and ensure the edges are firmly in contact with the wall. DO NOT USE A SEAM ROLLER. Crease the paper into the ceiling and skirting and trim off any excess top and bottom with a straight edge and a sharp snap-off knife.

SPECIAL CARE ON CORNERS

Inside corners are rarely true and should be hung in two strips. Where vinyl overlaps vinyl, a PVA adhesive should be used. On inside corners, measure from the edge of the last length of paper into the corner. Do this top and bottom. To the largest measurement add 15mm and cut this measurement from a new length of paper and hang. This will allow 15mm to wrap around into the adjoining wall. This is your first corner length.

HANDLING SWITCHES AND POWER POINTS

To avoid an accidental shock, first switch power off at the main before working around switches and power points. Lay freshly soaked wallpaper over each fitting and mark four corners of a square around the fitting. Lift the paper off and use scissors to cut from the centre to each corner to give you four triangles. Crease each of these against the base of the fitting then cut with a straight edge and knife. Be careful not to damage the face of the switch or plug with the knife. Some fittings can be loosened to allow the paper to be trimmed close to the edge of the hole in the wall. The remainder can then be tucked neatly under the face plate.

Photographs show how to trim wallpaper to fit circular light fittings.

AROUND DOORS AND WINDOWS

When you come to a window or door frame, hang a full length of wallpaper so that it overlaps the frame. Make the paper on the actual wall as smooth as possible, then cut on the diagonal to the corner point of the frame. Lift the flaps and carefully smooth the paper into the edges of the frame, crease and trim.

1.

2.

BORDERS AND INTEREST

Choose a border to match your wallpaper and suddenly a very plain room can suddenly come to life. A border does not have to run right around the room just below the ceiling or halfway up the wall. They can have a dramatic effect around windows and door architrave's. Borders are usually sold in five metre or ten metre lengths. Measure each wall in a room from corner to corner, then add together for your total requirement. You will need to add a little extra depending on the pattern repeat of the border you choose. Remember, borders are put up as a complete piece on each wall and the only joins should be in the corners of the room. Plan the position of your border carefully before you start. Use a carpenters level to make a horizontal line. If you are not sure of the effect you want to achieve, hold the border in place with blue-tack before making a final decision. Mark the position of the borders very lightly in pencil if they run across an expanse of plain wall.

CUTTING BORDERS

To cut your border regardless of what angle, there must always be four points visible before making your cut. For left or right diagonal cuts, for around window and door architrave's make your cut with a straight edge and a sharp cutter through both layers of paper. Remove excess and smooth out. If border is not prepasted, cut to the lengths required, wet borders and apply a coat of border adhesive. If the wall requires more than one length of border, the second length should overlap the first enough to match the pattern. Once in position cut though both layers, remove excess and smooth out, remembering to remove all surplus paste. To hang borders around corners, handle in the same way as for wallpaper, any slight mismatch will be hidden by the natural shadow in the corner of the room. Continue this way until you have completed hanging the border around your walls.